Birds. What Food Other Than Bread Is Good To Give To Ducks And Geese?
Birds. I Watched A Prog The Other Day That Said Bread Is Fine To Give Birds But Not Great In Terms Of Nutrition. The Prog Was About Garden Birds And R
Birds : What Food Other Than Bread Is Good To Give To Ducks And Geese
I watched a prog the other day that said bread is fine to give birds but not great in terms of nutrition. The prog was about garden birds and recommended giving them seed, nuts and the like. Geese and ducks though could not eat this easily due to it's size and the shape of their is there something better? ~~~ Rowan ~~~
Best Answer To Birds Question
Are you talking about pets, or about wild ducks and geese? Bread is never something you want to give them. It's just empty calories, and they fill up on it and don't get any kind of nutrition at all. I don't recommend feeding wild ducks and geese. /all/feedingducksge_ A lot of people go to a park or lake and feed the ducks and think they are doing the animals a favor, but they don't realize that there will be other people going and doing the same thing. Tons of people will go and feed them, they'll fill up on bread and chips and whatever else people will toss out there, and they'll just stay there and waste will build up. Migratory birds won't migrate if they have a food supply. :/ Anyway, ducks and geese love tomatoes, cracked corn, lettuce, grapes, basically any chopped vegetables fruits.
All Answers To Birds Questions
Answer 1I like to give cracked corn. Its easy to eat and they LOVE it!!!!!!!!
Answer 2Keeping domestic geese: essential hints - useful if you have not kept a goose before. These points are the result of the most frequently asked questions about goose diseases and looking after and keeping geese. There are extra notes and queries at the foot of the page. Book about geese What do I need to transport geese? How often should I treat geese for worms? What do I feed them on? Why do they need grit? What do I do if they become ill? How long will they live? Should I let the goose sit? Transporting Geese Birds overheat very rapidly in cardboard boxes in cars in summer heat. They will die even more rapidly than dogs left in stationary cars. This is because of their feathers and the additional insulation of the box. Wire (weldmesh) containers or purpose-made poultry or pet-carriers are best. If cardboard boxes must be used, always cut plenty of air holes, or tie on a wire top to allow free passage of air. Store boxes in the shade, park the car in the shade, and load boxes only when ready to travel. Place the boxes on the shaded side of the car; do not put them in a sealed boot. Ventilate the car well, or use air-conditioning while travelling. Listen to the weather forecast before picking up birds in the summer months and avoid heat-wave conditions for travelling. It is illegal to bind a bird's legs or wings, or to carry it in a sack. The bird should not be loose in the vehicle. A bird distressed by heat should be put on water immediately on release. Worming geese Geese are relatively easy to keep except for one problem, which can be avoided quite easily. Both ducks and geese can get gizzard worm but geese are far more likely to suffer from its effects and die. So always worm geese when buying or selling them. Do make sure that this is not done twice. Gizzard worm is a common parasite and its incidence would be considerably reduced if more people took this precaution. Wormers include the following products. Levamisole % strength. This is available from a vet, using figures from veterinary handbooks. The dosages quoted are usually for cage birds. Scaling these cage bird figures up directly, for the larger geese, results in an over-dose. Average size domestic geese should not be given more the ml. Never exceed ml for even the largest geese. In the case of geese, the levamisole can be given as a drench . a liquid dose down the throat. DO NOT EXCEED THE DOSE AND ALWAYS DILUTE THE PRODUCT WITH AT LEAST AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF WATER. The liquid is administered by a syringe (no needle) down the throat of the bird. Take care that the bird swallows, and do not introduce liquid into the lungs of the bird. The advantages of using a single dose like this are that: the dosage is measured and known; it is useful to give a single, immediate-effect dose if a bird is ill. So it is useful for an emergency. The dosage can also be given diluted in a much larger volume of drinking water over 2-8 hours. However, spillage must be accounted for. It can also be put n the food if the amount consumed can be monitored. Note that this wormer is unsuitable as a single drench for goslings under 10 weeks old. Side-effects are birds throwing their head and neck about. Over-doses can kill. Remember to read the information about withdrawal times on the product. Flubenvet is a multi-purpose wormer for waterfowl and poultry. It kills gizzard and throat worm, round worm, caecal worm and tape worm. The wormer is a white powder which adheres well to poultry pellets. The correct dose (given on the packaging for geese) must be fed for 7 days. The advantage of using flubendozole, found in Flubenvet, is that it is easy to administer. It can be used with goslings. The disadvantage is that, with geese in particular, you do not know how much wormer they have consumed if they also graze. It does not give an immediate result if they are ill. Remember to read the information about withdrawal times on the product. Flubenvet can be obtained from suppliers of poultry and game supplies . smallholder suppliers such as Ascot. Panacur is not licensed as a poultry wormer but it is obtainable through your vet. It has simply not been specifically tested for birds. It contains fenbendazole which kills the gizzard worm, but not its eggs. Two doses, spaced at 2-3 weeks are therefore needed to eradicate the pest. It is also less effective than the above two wormers at killing throat worms (gapes). However:- It is very useful for treating goslings at any age with a single dose, if they become ill with gizzard worm and are not eating. Flubenvet is of no use in this situation. Panacur does not give the side-effects of levamisole. Note that the 10% solution for cattle or catdog should be used. [The % solution for sheep results in a four-fold dose being required and other ingredients may be added.] The stated dosage for the 10% solution is ml for up to 10kg. It can be given as a drench (see above) or put on food if you watch that the food is consumed. Remember to read the information about withdrawal times on the product. Birds are unlikely to suffer from gizzard worm if treated when new to the premises and then fed well, or grazed at a low stocking density. However, it is always a good idea to worm a goose just after she has commenced to sit (and the gander) so that if she becomes ill, you then know that it is not worms which are causing the problem. Aim to worm the birds twice a year in total, and observe appropriate withdrawal times if affected products (eggs or meat) were intended for consumption. Further info on worms in waterfowl and poultry in articles at: /diseaseinfo/67/gizzard-worms-geese What do I feed the geese on? Geese can be kept exclusively on grass, but this should only be practised on free-range on farms where the birds are run extensively and grazed with other animals. A low stocking density for geese reduces the concentration of parasites for them. Parasites are mostly species-specific. The geese will not catch coccidiosis from the sheep, for example. Grass should be kept short for geese, less than 4 inches. long. Tough grass can cause crop-binding and death. Mow the grass if it is too long, or get larger animals in to eat it. Geese on clean, short grass do not need a lot of supplementary food in spring and summer, but they should be offered a mixture of wheat and pellets, dry, in a bowl, before being shut up for the night. Give as much as they will eat up in 20 minutes; supply a bucket of water for then to drink as well. Dry, powdery mash should not be fed to waterfowl. It gets stuck in the mouth and can lead to 'dropped tongue'. Wheat is a good all-round food containing more protein than maize, found in 'mixed corn'. Wheat is also cheaper. If the grass is restricted or dirty, wheat on its own can be fed in a larger quantity in a bucket of water, just sufficient for the day. The water prevents most vermin from taking the wheat. Wheat is fed as a basic food at Slimbridge (Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust) in the water, at the water's edge. This is a natural way of feeding waterfowl and wildfowl. Also feed pellets to geese which will eat them, especially in the breeding season. Pellets can be ordinary poultry layers, but if you can get waterfowl rations locally, supplied by firms such as Allen Page, Bibby's, BOCM, Marriages etc., so much the better. These companies have web sites with information about their products for waterfowl. The pellets are fed dry in a bowl, and are usually fed mixed with wheat (1:1). Pellets spoil in heavy rain and can go mouldy if damp. Make sure that they are stored correctly, and only put out as many as the geese will eat within the day - or at a specific feeding time. On zero grazing, geese will eat up to 7 oz of food per day (depending on the size of the goose). Large growing goslings of large strains of Embden will eat 12 oz or more. Geese also like greens such as cauliflower trimmings, small amounts of carrots and potatoes, and bread (not more than 10% of the diet). They do have to acquire a taste for new food though; geese tend to eat what their parents ate. Be careful that geese do not get too fat. A good regime is to feed them only morning and evening and to let them graze for most of the day if they have access to clean grass. Why do they need grit? All waterfowl and poultry need grit so that their gizzard - a large internal muscle in the digestive system - can mill the food. It is the partial equivalent, in its function, to our teeth. Supply mixed poultry grit containing limestone, oyster shell and flint in the breeding season. This also supplies calcium for the goose. Also supply coarse sand, containing larger pieces of grit, throughout the year. The coarse sand punctures the grass and makes it more digestible. Coarse building sand is suitable This should be pure sand - no additives. If grit is not supplied, geese will look for hard material to pick up, and are even more likely to find bits of old wire and nails in the soil. Avoid problems by providing grit and tidying up any objects likely to cause damage internally. My parents used to keep geese and had a duck ;).
Answer 3Are you talking about pets, or about wild ducks and geese? Bread is never something you want to give them. It's just empty calories, and they fill up on it and don't get any kind of nutrition at all. I don't recommend feeding wild ducks and geese. /all/feedingducksge_ A lot of people go to a park or lake and feed the ducks and think they are doing the animals a favor, but they don't realize that there will be other people going and doing the same thing. Tons of people will go and feed them, they'll fill up on bread and chips and whatever else people will toss out there, and they'll just stay there and waste will build up. Migratory birds won't migrate if they have a food supply. :/ Anyway, ducks and geese love tomatoes, cracked corn, lettuce, grapes, basically any chopped vegetables fruits.
Answer 4Bread is fine if you are just going to the park to feed the ducks. No, it does not hold a lot of nutrition for them, and they would starve to death if they had to live on it. Ducks are primarily vegetarians, but also eat bugs, small lizards and frogs, and small snakes. They will try to eat anything that moves. If you want to feed them something that is good for them, there is duck food or even chicken food you can get from the feed store. They also eat cracked corn and wheat. (also at the feed store) If you give it to them on the ground, put it in a little pile. This does make it easier for them to eat, but believe me, they do not have trouble eating anything. The shape of the bill does not keep them from eating what they want. I don't recommend giving ducks nuts. Popcorn is safe as long as it is not salted....but just as a snack for the park birds.....Feeding the ducks in the park is not harmful to them, they are not dependent on this food. Just make sure you don't feed them junk food that is sugary or salty. No chips... And they do not require giving them grit. They get enough gritty stuff from the ground. Giving grit can actually clog up the digestive system. The gizzard grinds the food up just fine. That's what is supposed to do. We have over 2,000 pairs of exotic birds, 50 breeding pairs of cockatiels and about 100 pairs of quakers. We do not give grit to any of them....
Answer 5Ducks, geese and swans are partial to cat biscuits, especially vegetable or fish and vegetable varieties. I have successfully used Tuna, Herring and vegetables also Fish,Spinach and vegetables. Nothing with meat extracts in though as this might risk cross species infection. our local wild ducks come back every year for more and have been doing so for 5 years now and are in fine fettle.
Answer 6Pet ducks and geese should eat feed that you purchase from the feedstore, something like a gamebird feed when they are full grown, and turkey starter when they are young. Also, letting them freerange is good, because they can then get bugs and weeds, so that they can get added nutrients. But always provide plenty of water, deep enough for them to rinse their nose. Also, I've read that ducks love peas.
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