Maintenance & Repairs. My Kitchen Veneer Has Lifted Off In The Steam From The Kettle?

Maintenance & Repairs. My Kitchen Veneer Has Lifted Off In The Steam From The Kettle?

Maintenance & Repairs. The Damage Is On The Bottom Of The Cabinet Doors But I Would Prefer Not To Have To Replace Them (also I Don't Know Where They C

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Maintenance Repairs : My Kitchen Veneer Has Lifted Off In The Steam From The Kettle

Maintenance Repairs. My Kitchen Veneer Has Lifted Off In The Steam From The Kettle.

The damage is on the bottom of the cabinet doors but I would prefer not to have to replace them (also I don't know where they came from). The veneer has lifted about 6 inches across. Superglue doesn't hold it. Any tips? ~~~ lisa g ~~~

Best Answer To Maintenance Repairs Question

If you are describing wood veneer, woodworking glue is sometimes used, but contact cement would be better in this case. If you are describing plastic laminate, contact cement is the best adhesive. "Super" glue isn't the right stuff to use to attach either material. Remove the cabinet door. Allow the area to dry for a couple days if still damp from steam. Sand door lightly. Spread contact cement on the mating surfaces following instructions on the can.

All Answers To Maintenance Repairs Questions

Answer 1

Stop drinking tea? (It has more flouride than tap water, yuck) You could use wood glue, but you'll have to make a clever wedge/clamp to press a book against it or such, or it won't work.

Answer 2

Move your kettle perhaps. And then try some super super glue...its the steam that's making it unstick.

Answer 3

Off to the hardware store for some better adhesive. And you'll need clamps to hold it in place until it sets. You can get some iron on veneer glue, cold press glue, epoxy or any other strong glue. Ask at the hardware store. And don't forget to scrape off any remnants of super glue!

Answer 4

Contact adhesive from a DIY stall, sticks like the preverbial. Its used to bond laminates to chipboard or mdf. takes a few hours to go off so you may want to tape it down while its drying.

Answer 5

Buy a heat gun and hot melt pellets ! ! I promise you it does work and you have it in your tool box for lots of other jobs,try BQ.

Answer 6

If you can remove the door. Take it and clean with a fine sand paper between the veneer and the backing. Then try your super-glue or some sort or adhesive, hold together with some clamps for 8 to 10 hours until it has a good strong bond..

Answer 7

I hope you mean only the edging strip, not the door face? Assuming edging strip - you need to really dry them out first as no glue sticks to damp surfaces. Cut across the veneer at the end of the lifted section so you can raise the whole section slightly. Cut out some of the MDF to give a bit if space and then using a hot glue gun run the glue into the space and then clamp the door edge onto a flat surface to hold in place while it sets. Because the veneer is basically plastic paper and the MDF is wood dust ordinary glues will not work properly. Super glue is designed for spaces with no air, your door has "air" in it and is porous MDF. Quite a delicate job if you are not used to DIY but works well if you are careful!

Answer 8

Superglue is no good for wood. The correct product to use is a proper wood glue - look for Evode PVA Wood Glue. There are two grades one for indoor and one for exterior use as you want a waterproof one go for the exterior quality one. However, if you have already covered the wood in superglue it will prevent PVA glue working. If this is the case buy a contact glue like Evostick

Answer 9

If you are describing wood veneer, woodworking glue is sometimes used, but contact cement would be better in this case. If you are describing plastic laminate, contact cement is the best adhesive. "Super" glue isn't the right stuff to use to attach either material. Remove the cabinet door. Allow the area to dry for a couple days if still damp from steam. Sand door lightly. Spread contact cement on the mating surfaces following instructions on the can.

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